Pattern of pants: step-by-step construction. How to sew pajama pants with cuffs DIY homemade pants

Every woman should have a sewing machine at home. It is used most often for household needs: to sew up a hole, to shorten a skirt or to sew a handkerchief. What if you sew your own women's trousers? A pattern for beginners can be found ready-made or constructed independently. It's not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Making your own trousers may be necessary in different cases:

• When store-bought trousers don't fit properly. This can be caused by various reasons: non-standard ratio of waist and hips, pregnancy, fullness in some places and others.
• When you want something exclusive. Shops and markets are full of standard products made from the simplest fabrics. Exclusive models cost incredible amounts of money.
• When I found high-quality fabric at home that was just right for trousers in size and composition.
• When to get something new. If you compare the cost of the amount of fabric required and the cost of the finished product made from fabric of the same composition, you can see that making trousers yourself will help you save money.

If you have very little sewing skills, then you can try to make the simplest model of trousers first. For example, a pattern for women's trousers for beginners can be used (harem pants or trousers with an elastic band will result in trousers).

What you will need

In order to sew trousers, you will need:

• Graph paper for creating a pattern.
• Pencil, needles, spools of thread matching the tone.
• Centimeter tape for taking measurements.
• Main and
• Sewing machine.
• Overlock for processing the edges of the product. If you don’t have it, you don’t have to buy a special device. It is quite possible to follow the example of Italian fashion designers and finish the edges of the product with bias tape, which is sold in a hardware store. You can cut out the binding yourself from the same lining fabric.
• For finishing as needed: elastic, zipper, buttons, hooks, grosgrain ribbon and others. Additional materials are selected according to the needs of the model.

Where to begin

In order to make your own trouser pattern, you need to take your own measurements. It is better to do this in only underwear. Using a measuring tape, you need to measure yourself in the places necessary for creating a pattern:

• OT (waist circumference). Measured at the waist at the narrowest point.
• OB (hip circumference). Measured at the widest point of the torso. If this is the area of ​​the buttocks, then the measurement is made at the most protruding place without tightening the tape. If the widest place is in the riding breeches area, then the tape should be slightly moved down to this area.
• Bottom width (SH).
• DB (side length). This size is determined by the distance along the side of the leg from the waist to the floor.
• BC (seat height). This distance is determined as follows: you need to sit on a chair and lower the perpendicular to the seat. The length of this segment is the required size.
• VC (knee height).
• DS (stride length). This indicator is calculated from the difference in the length of the product along the side step and the height of the seat.
• The width of the front and back halves of the trousers.

These designations are used when creating patterns, and are also used in ready-made patterns in magazines or on the Internet.

Where possible without construction

If you don’t really want to deal with complex pattern construction that uses formulas, you can use a ready-made option:

• Magazine. You can buy a fashion magazine and copy the pattern from there. The convenience of this method is that the magazine often describes in detail how to perform individual elements of the model when sewing, and also gives advice on choosing fabric and cutting the product. The downside is that all models are shown for the most common sizes and for typical figures. Therefore, owners of non-standard shapes will have to adapt the finished pattern to themselves.
• Ready-made trousers. It happens that there are old trousers in the closet that have become unusable due to age or simply become too small. You can take them and rip them apart at the seams, then wash, iron and cut out a new product using them, adding a few centimeters in the right places if necessary.

If you can’t find a ready-made pattern, then it’s worth creating a pattern that will ideally take into account all the features of your figure and can be used in the future to make various models of women’s trousers. With simple manipulations, the basic pattern for women's trousers for beginners will turn into a designer product.

Constructing a pattern

For cutting you will need a pattern of women's trousers for beginners. Step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly. And with a little effort, you will become the owner of brand new original trousers.

It is usually quite difficult to create a pattern for women's trousers. For beginners, complex formulas are not used in the drawings. You will only need to use two body measurements: hip circumference and product length. But it is worth considering that any pattern that is used for the first time must be tailored to a specific figure.

Cutting will need to be done taking into account the fact that you will have to leave more seam allowances. For the first time, it is better to do it with a reserve to protect yourself from mistakes. The second time, you can use the finished pattern and calmly sew women’s trousers. The pattern for beginners is made in the simplest version and is used for sewing straight trousers, which are used in the basic wardrobe of any woman.

This circuit can be built in just half an hour.

Pattern of women's trousers for beginners: step-by-step instructions

First you need to determine the so-called hip norm. The formula for calculation looks like this: Hb = 1/20. That is, if the hip circumference is 100 cm, then the hip norm calculated using this formula will be equal to 5. The second formula that is used for construction concerns determining the value of the hip coefficient. The formula looks like this: Kb = Nb/2. That is, the hip ratio is half the value of the hip norm. With a hip circumference of 100 cm, the coefficient will be 2.5. In the construction of this pattern, seam allowances (1 cm) have already been taken into account. The increase along the bottom edge is 3 cm. A pattern for women's trousers of size 54 for beginners will have a hip norm of 6, and a size 44 - 4.5. This is how women's trousers begin to be constructed.

Pattern for beginners: calculation of the front half

It is more convenient to first draw a pattern on a scale sheet, and then transfer it to a sheet of paper in full size.

A square is constructed in the center of the sheet, containing 5 values ​​of the hip norm on each side. For example, if the hip norm is 5, then the square will have sides of 25 cm each.

Now from the lower right corner of the resulting square up along its side we set aside the value of 1.5 times the hip norm. In the example it is 7.5. From the same angle we set aside 1 size of the hip norm to the right. The resulting line is the line of the buttocks. From the resulting angle, it is necessary to set aside a segment equal to half the norm of the hips, and through its end draw a line connecting the first two points.

Now you need to mark the arrow line of the future trousers on the drawing. To do this, from the lower left corner along the line of the buttocks, you need to set aside 3 norms of the hips to the right and draw a vertical line along this point. Now, from the point of intersection of the arrow line and the upper surface of the square, you need to measure the length of the trousers, set this segment down along the arrow line. The result is the bottom line of the trousers. To determine the knee line, the segment from the bottom line to the buttock line is divided in half.

Now you need to narrow the legs. For the classic model of trousers, it is calculated as follows: on the knee line from the arrow line to the right and left sides, set aside a segment equal to 2.5 times the norm of the hips. Along the bottom of the trousers, from the arrow line, 2 norms of hips are laid out. This is how a pattern is built for such a thing as women's trousers. Even for beginners, as you can see, there is nothing complicated.

Building the back half

It is more convenient to build this part of the model on the front half, but for convenience it is highlighted in a different color.

You need to find the originally constructed square and draw a square above its upper right corner to the left side equal to 1 hip ratio on each side. Further from the existing step line of the front half, you need to move one norm of the hips to the right, and from it a quarter of the norm. Now you need to draw a smooth line from the resulting point to the upper left corner of the small square. From the same upper left corner of the small square, it is necessary to set aside 5 measurements of the hip norm so that this line connects with the waist line of the trousers of the front half of the pattern. The line will be slightly angled.

Now you need to add one hip norm along the knee line and the bottom line and connect the side seam line. The pattern is ready! Now all that remains is to transfer it to the required scale onto a large sheet of paper and start cutting. Please note that there are no darts on this pattern. The authors of this method recommend that after cutting, try on the basted trousers and mark the dart where it is needed. This can be determined practically. Some models have tucks instead of darts, so you can only place them at an equal distance from each other. There is very little left to sew women's trousers. A pattern for beginners allows you to master the basics of cutting, and then it’s a matter of technique.

Further actions

After transferring the pattern onto life-size paper, you need to take the prepared fabric, iron it if necessary, fold it in half and pin the patterns with needles. Each half of the trousers is cut out in duplicate. Before attaching the pattern to the fabric, you need to determine the direction of the grain thread. The trouser pattern should be positioned strictly in a vertical direction. For beginners, we can recommend the easiest way to determine the grain thread: you just need to pay attention to the edge of the fabric. It sets the direction. This means that the drawing must be applied parallel to the edge of the fabric. Draw future women's trousers on the fabric. The pattern for beginners helps you master the basics of cutting and sewing without any problems.

Let's start sewing

After the pattern is traced with chalk on the fabric, you need to cut it out with sharp scissors. Next, the details of the trousers are swept away and tried on. If the fit of the trousers on the figure is satisfactory, then you can start stitching by machine. If the fit requires adjustment, then basting is done again and the product is tried on again. This is done until the planting satisfies the hostess.

Modeling

We looked at how the pattern of women's trousers (size 54) is constructed. Everything was explained in detail for beginners. If you use elastic when sewing, and the goal is to obtain summer trousers, then you can use silk fabric. If you make an additional tapering, you can get pipe trousers, which are now fashionable. The basic principle of modeling: where you want the trousers to be wider, the pattern widens, and where you need a tight fit, it narrows.

Conclusion

Thus, having built a drawing, you can sew fashionable women's trousers for yourself in just an evening or two. The pattern for beginners is easy and quick to build. Once you have made a blank, you can use it to sew several models of trousers.

Loungewear is a must, but it's not necessary. , These could be simple home pants or pajamas. Lounge pants and pajama pants are worn with simple T-shirts and T-shirts and are very comfortable. We advise you to sew women's pajama pants from flannel, knitwear, velor and even calico, using your own hands using a pattern. The pattern is so simple that it is easy to draw it directly on the fabric. To create a pattern for pajama pants, just take your measurements; we created a pattern using conventional measurements for size 44. When drawing a pattern, use the construction description and a ready-made drawing of women's pajama pants. Waist semicircle - 34cm; hip semicircle – 47cm; trousers length – 95cm; The width of the bottom of the trousers is 18 cm.

To construct the drawing, let's draw a right angle, with the vertex at point A. From A downwards we put the length of the house trousers, 95 cm we get point H, from H to the right we draw a line.

Draw a hip line from point A down 18 cm for all sizes and mark point B. Draw a straight line from B to the right.

From point A downwards we will set aside 29.5 cm, this is 1/2 the semi-circle of the hips plus 6 cm for all sizes. In our example, 47:2+6=29.5 cm. We got point W - step width.

From point B to the right we will set aside 51 cm and denote it as B1. To calculate the width of the trousers along the hip line, take the measurement of the semicircle of the hips plus 4cm for all sizes 47+4=51cm. From point B1 up, draw a line to the intersection with the top line, point T, draw a line down, point H1, and the intersection with the step line Ш1.

From point B to point B1 we divide in half and get B2, through it we draw a line up to the intersection, the intersection point is at the top T1, at the bottom H2.

Then from point Ш1 to the right we will set aside 6.2 cm and designate Ш2, the calculation will be 47:10+1.5 for all sizes = 6.2 cm.

From point T to the left we put 1 cm from it, from it downwards we put 1 cm we get point T2. From Ш1 we divide the angle in half and set aside 4 cm on it. Let's draw a front seam line through T2, B1, 4 and Ш2.

The width of women's trousers for home can be made to any size, even bell-bottoms, and the length can also be changed as desired. If you draw an additional line below the knee 25cm, you will get short house trousers. You can decorate the bottom of the pants with an elastic band, a cuff, or simply hem it like the bottom of a skirt. To construct the bottom of the trousers from H2, set aside 16 cm, this is the width of the trousers at the bottom minus 2 cm for all sizes 18-2 = 16 cm. We will connect the bottom points Ш2 and Н3 and extend the line by 1 cm, connect 1 and Н2.

From point A to the right we will set aside 3 cm. From point W we will divide the angle in half and along the line we will set aside 6 cm. Let's connect Ш2,6 and B. Connect points B and 3 and extend the line upward by 4 cm, point T3.

From point H2 we put 20 cm to the left, we get H4 calculation 18+2 for all sizes = 20 cm. Connect points Ш3, Н4 and extend the line down by 1 cm. Connect points 1 and H2.

Let's draw the waist line of the house trousers from T3 to T2 and move on to constructing the darts. If we make house trousers with elastic, this greatly simplifies the construction and sewing of pajama pants - no darts need to be drawn.

Let's create side darts on the pajama pants pattern. From point T1, extend the line upward until it intersects with the waist line, and place T4. From T4 to the right and left we will set aside 2 cm. We connect points 2 and 2 with point B2 with a dotted line, divide it in half and set aside 0.5 cm to the right and left. Let's draw dart lines through 2, 0.5, B2, 0.5, 2.

Trouser front darts. Divide the waist line from T2 to T4 in half - T6. From T6 to the right 2cm, down along the line 7cm. Connect points T6, 7 and 2. From T6 to the left we will put 3cm, from 3 to the left we will put 2cm and down along the line 7cm. Let's connect points 2 and 7.

Darts on the back half of the trousers. Divide the waist line from T2 to point T4 in half and there will be point T5. From T5 to the right and left we will set aside 2 cm. From point T5 down a dotted line 9cm and connect points 2, 9, 2.

The pattern is ready, using this pattern you can sew trousers for pajamas, and if you need to sew a pajama blouse, then turn to.

Opening a new topic “Creating patterns for men's clothing”. Let's go from simple to complex.

Let's start by creating a pattern for pajama pants. Using the same pattern, you can sew any lounge pants, Bermuda shorts or summer shorts.

Our men can also try their hand at sewing.

To do this we need three measurements. For example, we use standard size 50 measurements, and you take measurements from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew these pajamas.

Pants length db...................104 cm

Half waist circumference St.......42 cm

Half hip circumference Sat......50 cm

The amount of increase for a loose fit depends on the degree of desired fit to the figure, on the type, composition and properties of the fabric.

Pajamas are clothes that are designed to fit loosely enough to provide comfort first and foremost. Therefore, instead of a tight belt, we provide for processing the upper section of the trousers with a drawstring with an elastic band, which will allow you to adjust the tightness of the fit. The drawstring can be one-piece with the main parts of the trousers or cut off. This should be taken into account when constructing a pattern or directly during cutting. The main thing is not to forget about this.

CONSTRUCTION OF A DRAWING OF PAJAMA PANTS PATTERNS.

FRONT HALF OF PANTS.

In the upper left corner we draw a right angle and denote the vertex with the letter T.

From point T downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the trousers. In our example, this is 104 cm, and you set aside your measurement and put point H. TN = Db = 104 cm. From point H to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

From point T down, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips plus 3 cm and place point Z.

TY = Sat: 2 + 3cm = 50: 2 + 3 = 28cm.

ATTENTION: You substitute your hip half-circumference value into the formula and make your calculation.

From point I to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

From point H upward we set aside 1/2 of the distance YH plus 6 cm and place point K.

NK = YAN: 2 + 6cm = 76: 2 + 6 = 44cm.

You measure the YAN segment on your drawing and make a calculation.

From point K to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Width of the front half.

From point I to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips plus 6 cm and place point I1.

RY1 = 1/2 Sat + 6 cm = 50: 2 + 6 = 31 cm.

From point H1 we lower the perpendicular to the bottom line and place point H1. The point of intersection with the knee line is designated by the letter K1.

From point T to the right, set aside 1/2 of the waist circumference plus 6 cm and place point T1.

TT1 = 1/2 St + 6 cm = 42: 2 + 6 = 27 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T1 we lower the perpendicular to the line РЯ1 and denote the point of intersection with the horizontal РЯ1 with the letter Р2.

From point T to the right, set aside 2 cm (for all sizes) and place point T2.

From point T1 we set aside 1 cm downwards (for all sizes) and place point T3.

We connect points T2 and T3 with a straight line.

From point H to the right, set aside 3 cm (for all sizes) and place point H2.

From point T down, set aside 18 cm (for all sizes) and place point B. This point determines the position of the hip line.

We draw up the side line. To do this, we connect points T2, B, Z and H2.

From point Y2 upward we set aside 6 cm (for all sizes) and place point C. And again from point Y2 along the bisector of the angle upward to the right we set aside 2.5 - 3 cm (for all sizes) and place point C1.

We connect points C, C1 and R1 with a smooth line. Thus, the middle cut of the front half of the trousers will pass from point T3, then through points C, C1 and R1.

Step-by-step cut of the front half.

Along the bottom line from point H1 to the left, set aside 3 cm (for all sizes), put point H3 and connect it with a straight line to point H1.

The segment H2H3 defines the bottom line of the front half.

This completes the construction of the front half of the pajama pants.

BACK HALF OF TROUSERS

We start constructing the back half of the trousers from a right angle in the upper right corner with the apex at point T4.

Down from point T4 we place the measurement for the length of the trousers. In our example, it is 104 cm, and you set aside your measurement and put point H4.

Т4Н4 = Db = 104 cm.

From point H4 to the left, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

From point T4 to the left we set aside 1/2 the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips plus 6 cm and place point T5.

T4T5=1/2 Sat+6 cm= 50:2+6=31 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T5 we lower the perpendicular to the bottom line and mark the intersection point with the letter H5.

Seat height as well as on the front half of the trousers, we determine it by calculation. From point T5 downwards we set aside 1/2 of the semicircle of the hips plus 3 cm and place point H3.

T5Y3=1/2 Sat+3 cm=50:2+3=28 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

We draw a horizontal line through point Y3 and mark the point of intersection with the vertical T4H4 with the letter Y4.

We divide the segment T4T5 in half, put point T6. From this point upward we draw a perpendicular 4 cm long (for all sizes) and place point T7.

Extend line T5T4 to the right and from point T7, using a compass, make a notch on it with a radius equal to 1/2 of the waist half-circumference plus 2 cm and place point T8.

See the picture below.

Т7Т8 = 1/2 St + 2 cm = 23 cm.

And don’t forget to substitute your values ​​into the formula.

From point T8 through point T7 we draw a straight line, extending it to the left of point T7 by 5 cm (for all sizes) and place point T9.

Middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T9 and R3 with a straight line.

From point R3 up along the same line we lay off 1/3 of the segment R3T9 and place point C2.

From point C2 to the right at a right angle we set aside 1.5 cm and place point C3.

From point R3, continuing the horizontal line to the left, set aside 1/4 of the segment R3R4 and place point R5.

R3R5 = 1/4 R3R4 = 31: 4 = 7.8 cm.

You substitute your values ​​into the formula.

We divide the segment Y3Y5 in half and put 1 cm down at a right angle (for all sizes) and put point Y6.

We draw up the middle line of the back half of the trousers by connecting points T9, C3, R3, R6 and R5.

Look at the picture below.

From point H4 upward we set aside 1/2 of the distance R4H4 plus 6 cm and place point K2.

From point K2 to the left we draw a horizontal line.

The point of intersection with the vertical T5H5 is designated by the letter K3.

From point H5 to the left, along the continuation of the bottom line, set aside 1 cm and place point H6.

From point K3 to the left, on the continuation of the knee line, set aside 4 cm and place point K4.

K3K4 =4 cm (for all sizes).

We connect points R5 and K4 with a straight line and divide this segment in half. We denote the division point with the letter B and from it to the right at a right angle we set aside 0.5 cm and place point B1.

We make a step-by-step cut of the back half of the trousers, connecting points H5, B1, K4 and H6.

Look at the picture below.

From point H4 to the left we set aside 6 cm and place point H7.

By connecting points T8 and H7, we form the side cut of the back half of the trousers.

The segment H6H7 defines the bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

This completes the construction of the pattern for men's pajama trousers.

The resulting drawing can be used as a basis for further modeling. Using simple techniques, you can use it to create a wide variety of styles of trousers, Bermuda shorts, shorts, etc.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget to make a double allowance for the elastic at the top edge. The size of the allowance will depend on the width of the elastic and the number of rows. You can cut the belt separately, sew the required number of lines, insert an elastic band and sew the finished belt to the trousers. The choice is always yours, and options are always possible!

Cutting details

In our article, all figures are given as an example only. You can change any and use the values ​​that suit your case. For example, by increasing the allowance for a loose fit, we get looser trousers and vice versa.

This is just one of the variety of options for constructing men's trousers that exist and which we will master.

We will tell you how to create a pattern for the pajama top in the next article.

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By Marina Pankratieva 10/31/2017

Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with elastic based on a pattern of classic trousers

Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with elastic based on a pattern of classic trousers. Men's trousers with a simplified cut are the topic of our video. We have a course on designing and sewing men's trousers. Many have already purchased this course for themselves, they share in the comments how they did it, that they are satisfied, maybe some of you have your own basic pattern for the basis of men's trousers.

But very often it happens that you need to sew something very quickly and simply, “in a hurry,” as they say. For example, how you and I sewed a skirt with an elastic band*. In order for us to be able to sew men's trousers with elastic for the country house, for the beach, for relaxation, something simple and practical for relaxation and for the home in an hour, we need a basic pattern for men's trousers.

men's trousers "quickly" based on the basic pattern of men's trousers

So, today we will figure out how to cut and sew homemade men's trousers using a simplified technology based on a pattern of classic trousers. Our trousers will have a simplified cut without a side seam and with an elastic band.

basic pattern for men's trousers

Here is the basic trouser base. The front halves of the trousers and the back halves of the trousers are outlined in red, but this pattern requires very complex tailoring, so this pattern is not suitable for us now. Now I will show you how to use this pattern to make a pattern for an easy-to-make version of trousers. From the base pattern we remove the front and back halves of the trousers.

lay out the pattern on the fabric

from the base base we re-take the pattern of the back and front panels

Since we have mock-up fabric and I don’t see the point in buying two lengths for such a lesson, and if we lay out the patterns on the fabric, it’s not enough for us, so I slightly changed the canvas by hemming the missing piece of fabric where I didn’t have it for laying out the pattern, see photo When you will buy fabric, see in advance how much you need - one or two lengths of fabric.

the missing piece of fabric for the training layout is simply added

After this, we connect both parts of the pattern so that they coincide along the bottom line of the trousers, see photo

Along the bottom line, the pattern pieces must match

After the bottom has been leveled, it is necessary to align it along the top line, the patterns along the hip line are slightly on top of each other, see photo, we will add this distance later
in the meantime, you need to attach the pattern to the fabric (pin it with pins)

align the pattern along the top line and place them along the hip line

Since our trousers will have an elastic band, and we have slightly removed the volume along the hip line (so that there is not a very large width along the side seam line when combining two pattern pieces), we need to return this volume and add more to it.

This is what the pattern looks like on the fabric

To do this, we need to make a cut along the ironing line on the paper pattern and expand the pattern to a width that takes into account what was lost when applying the pattern and for additional freedom to use an elastic band, we add width as desired, look at the photo, How far did I spread the pattern?

cut the pattern of the front panel along the drawstring line

spread the pattern to the required width along the bottom line and along the top line

You can also move it wider along the bottom line. When you buy fabric, see in advance how much you need - one or two lengths of fabric.

In the same way, it is necessary to open the back half of the trousers: randomly, approximately in the center, cut the pattern and spread it apart, secure it with pins on the fabric so that it is convenient to cut. We don’t spread it too far apart, since loose trousers that are too wide won’t look very good either.

open the back half of the trousers in the same way as the front

All we have to do is cut out one piece (the fabric is folded in half), sew one instep seam in the middle, and assemble the top with an elastic band and the trousers will be ready in an hour! For those who like pockets, you can make a patch pocket**. Now we need to add 4 cm along the top line so that we can sweep and insert the elastic.

add 4 cm along the top line in order to create a hem and thread the elastic

When cutting, pay attention to this area - leave a little more seam allowance in this place so that there is more room there too.

when cutting, pay attention to this area

We basted one and the second step seam, now you will see what our trousers will look like, of course, it is best to sew right away and not baste, but I’m still uncomfortable, since the equipment is turned off, but I want to show you the principle, so I’m basting.

And you need to mark with a notch where the front part is, then set aside 6 cm for the elastic, fold it in half and iron it. The elastic can be inserted with a pin or a special rubber threader; it is very simple and convenient to use.

rubber bander

we make a hem for the elastic and thread the elastic

These trousers are very comfortable - one crotch and one middle seam, overlock, elastic and trousers are ready! These are the trousers we came up with for home and leisure!

Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin

Many needlewomen would like to sew trousers for their relatives and beloved men: husband, brother or son. And if it’s just a question of the pattern, then in this article we will tell you how to build a drawing basic pattern for men's trousers, i.e. basics of men's trousers.

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the length, width or configuration of the side and step cuts, as well as using other simple techniques, you can create the necessary patterns. This classic suit trouser patterns And sweatpants patterns, work trouser patterns And beach shorts patterns etc.

Construction men's trouser patterns is not as complicated a matter as some people think or as it might seem at first glance.

Main, take accurate measurements, follow all the recommendations in this instruction and the pattern for a specific figure is ready.

We use the measurements of our conditional client as an example, and you take measurements from your man’s figure and operate when creating a trouser pattern with your own numbers.

We will need the following measurements:

Drawing a pattern for the front half of the trousers.

On the left side of the sheet of paper we draw a vertical line, on which we plot the length of the trousers (Db) 105 cm and put points T and H. From these points to the right we draw straight lines of arbitrary length horizontally.

Seat height.

From point T we set aside 27 cm downwards - this is the height of the seat according to the measurement (Vs) and put point W, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Knee line.

From point T we put 58 cm down (the length to the knee according to the measurement (Dbk) and put point K, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Hip line.

From point W upward we set aside 1/3 of the height of the seat (Hc) and put point B, from which we also draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

ШБ = Sun: 3 = 27: 3 = 9 cm.

And you substitute your values ​​into the formula.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the step line. From point Ш to the right we set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and place point Ш1:

The fold line of the front half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, mark the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is designated T1, B1, K1, H1, respectively. Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it.

Middle cut of the front half of the trousers (bow line).

From Ш1 to the left we set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and place point Ш3:

From point Ш3 upward we draw a vertical, the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2, respectively.

From point Ш3 up vertically we plot the value of the segment Ш1Ш3 and place point Ш4. This can be done using a compass.

Ш3Ш4 = Ш1Ш3 = 5.3 cm. You operate with your own numbers.

We connect Ш4 and Ш1 with an auxiliary dotted line, divide it into three equal parts, and from the lower division point we put it down at a right angle of 0.3 cm. We designate this point with the number 1 and connect it with a smooth line with points B2 and Ш1. See the picture below.

The top section of the front half of the trousers (waist line).

From T2 downwards we set aside 1 cm and place point T3. From point T2 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the half waist circumference (St) plus 2 cm and place point T4:

T2T4 = St: 2 + 2 cm = 42: 2 + 2 = 23 cm.

We connect point T4 to point T3 with a dotted line.

Dart of the front half of the trousers.

Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it. At point T1, a dart or fold is constructed, depending on the model. We will build the dart, and you are guided by your goals.

From T1 to the left and to the right we set aside 1 cm and put points T5 and T6. From T1 downwards we set aside a dart length of 8 cm, mark this point with the number 8 and connect it with points T5 and T6.

Using a compass, we align the sides of the dart along the smaller side, and draw a waist line from point T4, through the ends of the dart to point T3.

The width of the front half of the trousers at the knee line.

From K1 to the left and to the right we set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the knee (according to the SK measure) plus 2 cm and put points K2 and K3:

K1K2 = K1K3 = Sk: 2 + 2 cm = 19: 2 + 2 = 11.5 cm.

From points K2 and K3, draw vertical lines downwards until they intersect with the bottom line and place points H2 and H3.

Note: The width of the trousers along the knee and hem lines may vary. We are building trouser base pattern, which we will use later for modeling various styles of trousers. If you do not plan to use this pattern in the future, you can immediately set the necessary parameters for the width of the trousers in this drawing.

Bottom line of the front half of the trousers. From point H1 we set aside 1 cm upward and, connecting this point with points H2 and H3, we draw the bottom line of the front half of men's trousers.

Side cut of the front half of the trousers. We make a side cut using a pattern. The lateral line of the front half of the trousers smoothly runs from point T4, through points B and W to point K2, and then in a straight line from K2 to H2. See the picture below.

Step-by-step cut of the front half of the trousers. We connect points K3 and Ш1 with an auxiliary dotted line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the left at a right angle we put 0.3 cm. We connect points Ш1, 0.3 and K3 with a smooth line.

Pocket on the front half of the trousers. As an example, we will build two types of pockets on the front half of the trousers.

First view of the pocket. From point T4 we put 5 cm to the right and down -15 cm. We connect the points with a straight line. This is a classic pocket.

Second type of pocket: From point T4 we put 8 cm down and connect it with a smooth line to point T6. Such pockets are more often used in sportswear. This line is shown as a dotted line in the figure below.

All figures are given as an example only.

Important, so that the size of the entrance to the pocket ensures free passage of the hand, this is approximately 13 - 16 cm.

The construction of the front half of the men's trousers is complete.

Drawing a pattern for the back half of the trousers.

Let's start building the back half of men's trousers. I draw your attention to the fact that when building the back half we will use the same letters as when building the front half. Be careful!

To draw a drawing of the back half of the trousers, we extend the lines of the waist, hips, step, knee and bottom, as shown in the figure below.

On the right side we draw a vertical line, the intersection points are designated T, B, W, K and N, respectively.

The width of the back half of the trousers along the step line. From point Ш to the left we set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and place point Ш1:

ШШ1 = Sat: 2 + 5 cm = 50: 2 + 5 = 30 cm.

The fold line of the back half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, mark the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is denoted by T1, B1, K1, H1, respectively.

Auxiliary lines of the middle section of the back half of the trousers.

From point Ш1 to the right we set aside 1/10 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and place point Ш3:

Ш1Ш3 = Sat: 10 + 0.3 cm = 50: 10 + 0.3 = 5.3 cm.

From point Ш3 we draw a vertical line upward. The intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2.

We divide the segment T2T1 into three equal parts. The right division point is designated by the letter T3. From point T3, draw a vertical line upward, on which we set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) minus 1.5 cm and place point T4:

T3T4 = Sat: 10 - 1.5 cm = 50:10 - 1.5 = 3.5 cm.

We connect points T4 and Ш3 with a dotted line. We denote the intersection with the line of the hips with the letter B3.

From point Ш3 along the bisector of the angle we set aside 1/20 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) and place point Ш4:

W3W4 = Sat: 20 = 50: 20 = 2.5 cm.

Extension along the step line of the rear half.

From point Ш1 to the left we set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 2.3 cm and place point Ш5:

Ш1Ш5 = Sat: 10 + 2.3 cm = 50: 10 + 2.3 = 7.3 cm.

The upper cut (waist line) of the back half of the trousers.

We continue the T2T waist line with a dotted line to the right. From point T4 we make a notch on this line with a radius equal to 1/2 half waist circumference (St) plus 3 cm and place point T5:

T4T5 = St: 2 + 3 cm = 42: 2 + 3 = 24 cm.

Dart in the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T4 and T5 with a straight line and divide the segment T4T5 in half, put point T6, from which down at a right angle we put the length of the dart 12 cm. From point T6 we put 1.5 cm to the left and right, we put points T7 and T8, these points connect to point 12 and get a dart for the back half of the trousers.

Width along the hip line of the back half of the trousers.

From point B3 to the right, along the continuation of the hip line, we set aside 27.3 cm. We obtain this value as a result of the following calculations. Half hip circumference (Sb) plus 2 cm for a loose fit and minus the width of the front half of the trousers along the hip line (we measure between points BB2 according to the drawing of the front half of the trousers). We put point B4.

B3B4 = Sat + 2 cm - 24.7 cm (width of the front half)= 50 + 2 - 24.7 = 27.3 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line of the back half of the trousers.

From K1 to the left and to the right we set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the knee (Sk) plus 3.5 cm and place points K2 and K3:

K1K2 = K1K3 = Sk + 3.5 cm = 19: 2 + 3.5 = 13 cm.

From points K2 and K3, draw straight lines down to the intersection with the bottom line and place points H2 and H3.

The bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

From H1 we put 1 cm down and connect it to points H2 and H3.

Side cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T5, B4 and K2 with a smooth line. Further down the side cut line goes in a straight line from point K2 to point H3.

Step-by-step cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points K3 and Ш5 with an auxiliary dotted line. From K3 upward we postpone the value of the segment K3 Ш1 (from the drawing of the front half of the trousers) minus 1 cm and set point Ш6. We divide the dotted line between points K3 and Ш6 in half, and from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 0.6 cm.

We connect points Ш6, 0.6, K3 with a smooth line.

Middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T4, B3, Ш4 and Ш6 with a smooth line, thereby completing the construction of the back half of the trousers.

Rice. thirty Cutting details

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the width of the bottom or the configuration of the side and step cuts, as well as using other simple techniques, you can achieve the desired result.

Before cutting, do not forget to check the pattern according to the main parameters and only after that proceed to laying it out on the fabric, observing the direction of the grain thread indicated on the cut details.

After cutting (before basting), for a good fit of the trousers on the figure, it is necessary to use an iron to pull off the areas between points B3, Ш6 and Ш6 0.6.

We will post the tricks of technology for processing men's trousers in subsequent articles.