We will get such a charming unicorn at the end of MK!

Hello, dear readers! Two weeks ago I decided to expand my horizons and take part in a knitting marathon, especially since the emphasis of the event is on children's things. :) And so the first task turned out to be knitting something on a fantasy theme! I’m not good friends with all sorts of fairy-tale characters, but for some reason the thought of a unicorn immediately came to mind. Then I remembered that I had long dreamed of knitting a toy for my daughter using the technique. amigurumi- these are Japanese toys with disproportionately large heads. After browsing the Internet, I finally fell in love with the image of a charming, gentle and slightly sad unicorn pony.

As you can see, I took the task seriously and drew several prototypes of the future unicorn, from which our dad chose one :)

My sketches of the future unicorn :)

There's only one question left: and how to knit such beauty?!

At first it seemed unrealistic, since I have poor understanding of diagrams and still don’t know how to do much. But soon I came across one MK video, in which knitting a unicorn turned out to be as easy as shelling pears! You can watch these video on YouTube. However, having knitted the first piece from the video, I realized that skipping to the right moment every time is a chore, I get confused in the rows, and, besides, the author does not always mention the number of columns in a row - for this reason I made mistakes several times and re-knitted ... In general, I decided to do detailed description of how to crochet this unicorn! Once you understand the principle, it is much easier to peek at the diagram than to replay the video over and over again. I made some changes and described everything in as much detail as possible, indicated the number of loops in each row - it’s simply impossible to make a mistake, and you can knit such a rainbow unicorn for your baby without any problems. It took me a week to do everything, about an hour a day.

So let's get started!

To knit a unicorn we will need:

• Main yarn (I have pink Madame Tricote Super Baby, 100% acrylic, density - 360 meters per 100 grams)
• Additional yarn (I have Pekhorka Perspective in violet color - wool/acrylic)
• Multi-colored yarn (for example, Cotton Gold Batik Alize, color 4530 - cotton/acrylic)
• Hook number 3
• Ribbon or marking ring
• Golden threads
• Pink and purple threads to match the color of the yarn, needle

All parts of the body, except the mane, are knitted in the round using regular stitches. The principle is the same! Once you try it, it won’t be so easy to stop knitting.

Unicorn body

In my opinion, this is the easiest part of the toy, so let's start with it! Further, as you get better at it, the process will become more enjoyable and faster, so you will be able to handle even more complex details;)

So, we knit the body of a unicorn:

First, we cast on 2 air loops and knit 6 stitches into the first loop. Next we knit in the round, not forgetting to mark the beginning of a new row. This can be done with a special marker or ribbon - it’s even more convenient, because you don’t need to reposition the marker every time!

2nd row: 1 stitch + increase (that is, one stitch in the first loop, two in the second, one in the third, two in the fourth, and so on) = 18 stitches in total.

Row 5: 4 stitches + increase = 36 stitches.

Row 6: 5 stitches + increase = 42 stitches.

At the end of the sixth row you should have 42 stitches, don’t be lazy to check :)

Row 11: 5 stitches + decrease (that is, after knitting five stitches in a row, we knit the sixth and seventh stitches together according to this pattern, then again five stitches and decrease, etc.) = 36 stitches at the end of the row.

Row 12: stitches as is = 36 sts.

Row 13: 10 stitches + decrease = 33 stitches.

Row 14: stitches as is.

Row 15: 9 stitches + decrease = 30 stitches.

Row 16: as is.

Row 17: 8 stitches + decrease = 27 stitches.

Row 18: as is.

Row 19: 7 stitches + decrease = 24 stitches.

The result is such a pot-bellied jug! Close the knitting and fill the body tightly with synthetic padding polyester (or other filler).

Unicorn body, side view

Unicorn body, back view

Unicorn head

Let's move on to the most important part of our unicorn's body - her head. If you knitted the torso without any problems, then there should be no problems with this detail either.

In the same way as with knitting the body, we cast on 2 air loops and knit 6 stitches into the first loop. Further:

Row 1: 2 stitches in each stitch of the previous row = 12 stitches in total.

Row 2: 1 stitch + increase = 18 stitches in total.

3rd row: 2 columns + increase (by analogy with the previous row: 1 column, 1 column, 2 columns and so on) = total 24 tbsp.

4th row: 3 stitches + increase = 30 st.

5th row: 9 stitches + increase = 33 st.

Row 6: 10 stitches + increase = 36 stitches.

Row 7: knit as is - in each column of the previous row along the column = a total of 36 sts.

Row 8: change the color to purple and knit as is.

Row 9: change the color to the main one and knit as is.

Row 10: 13 stitches, increase, 4 stitches, increase, 4 stitches, increase, 12 stitches = 39 stitches.

Row 11: 13 stitches, increase, 5 stitches, increase, 5 stitches, increase, 13 stitches = 42 stitches.

Row 12: 13 single crochet, two double crochet in one loop (increase), 6 double crochet, increase (double crochet), 6 double crochet, increase (double crochet), 14 single crochet = 45 sts.

Row 13: 14 stitches + increase = 48 stitches.

Rows 14-19: columns unchanged.

Row 20: 10 stitches + decrease = 44 stitches.

Row 21: 9 stitches + decrease = 40 stitches.

Row 22: 8 stitches + decrease = 36 stitches.

Row 23: 4 stitches + decrease = 30 stitches.

Row 24: 3 stitches + decrease = 24 stitches.

Row 25: 2 stitches + decrease = 18 stitches.

The result should be such a lamp-shaped part with an extension in the middle - we will then place the eyes along its edges.

Unicorn Handles

We cast on two purple air loops. We knit 6 stitches into the first loop. Next we knit in a circle:

1st row: two single crochets in each column of the previous row = 12 tbsp.

2-4 row: 36 columns in a row.

Change the color to the main one.

Row 5: 1 stitch + decrease = 8 stitches.

Rows 6-14: 72 stitches in a row.

As a result, such matches come out - the hands of our unicorn.

Legs

We start knitting the unicorn's legs in an additional color - for me it's purple.

1st row: 6 stitches in the first loop.

2nd row: 1 stitch + increase = 12 tbsp.

Row 3: 1 stitch + increase = 18 stitches.

4th row: 8 stitches + increase = 20 st.

Row 5: stitches as is behind the back wall of the loops (!!!).

Row 6: 7 stitches, 2 decreases, 9 stitches = 18 stitches.

Change the color to the main one (I have pink).

Row 7: 7 stitches, 2 decreases, 7 stitches = 16 stitches.

Row 8: 6 stitches + decrease = 14 stitches.

Row 9: just stitches, no changes.

Row 10: 5 stitches + decrease = 12 stitches.

Row 11: no changes.

Row 12: 4 stitches + decrease = 10 stitches.

Row 13: no changes.

Row 14: 3 stitches + decrease = 8 stitches.

For some reason, I suffered the most with the legs 🙈 I constantly ended up with extra columns. I hope everything went smoother for you, and my mistakes will be attributed to fatigue after a capricious day with the baby))
Unicorn ears

We collect 2 air loops. We knit 4 single crochets in the first loop.

1st row: knit two stitches in each stitch of the previous row = 8 tbsp.

2nd row: 3 stitches + increase = 10 tbsp.

3rd row: 4 stitches + increase = 12 tbsp.

4th row: 5 stitches + increase = 14 tbsp.

5th row: 6 stitches + increase = 16 tbsp.

6th row: columns without changes = 16 tbsp.

Unicorn mane

1. We collect 23 air loops of the main color (pink) and 3 loops of red (or another color of the rainbow).
2. We knit two double crochets into the third loop from the end.
3. Next, add 2 double crochets to each stitch and change the color every 4 stitches. That is, it turns out 6 colors for 24 loops. If you have 5 colors, initially cast on 27 stitches (25+2 for the rise) and change the color every 5 stitches. I hope the principle is clear :)
4. When we have finished the first row, we cast on 3 lifting loops, turn the knitting over and knit two double crochets into the first loop. In the next one we knit three double crochets, in the third - two, in the fourth - three, and so on we alternate, not forgetting to change the colors according to the color of the loop of the previous row! We thread the ends of the threads as we knit.

In the end you will get such a curly multi-colored mane - just a bomb;)

Horn

We collect 2 air loops. We knit 4 stitches in the first loop.

1st row: 1 stitch + increase = 6 tbsp.

2nd row: 5 stitches + increase = 7 tbsp.

3rd row: columns as is = 7 tbsp.

4th row: 6 stitches + increase = 8 tbsp.

Row 5: as is = 8 tbsp.

6th row: 7 stitches + increase = 9 tbsp.

Row 7: as is = 9 tbsp.

8th row: 8 stitches + increase = 10 tbsp.

The result is a very small cone-shaped part. Fill it and, if you wish, you can sew gold thread directly along the “floors” of our Leaning Tower of Pisa - you get a very impressive horn!

Well, it’s time to put all the body parts of the future unicorn in their places! Don’t try to do everything perfectly - that’s why it’s handmade, so that the thing is unique, with its own twists;)

1. First of all, we try on the head and secure it with pins. The strip of double crochets should be located in the middle. For better orientation, stick two pins into the outermost columns of this strip - where the unicorn's eyes will be. Flatten the unicorn's butt a little and make sure that it sits straight. If it doesn’t work, pin the legs - they will balance the toy. Everything suits me? Then carefully sew the head with the thread left over from knitting.
2. Place the legs with the top part about three rows above the butt vertically and in the center of the body horizontally (see the profile of my unicorn). Lock it in. Does the toy still fit securely? Then let's sew!
3. Next, we sew the handles in the same way. I placed them two rows below the head and also in the center of the body.
4. Next comes our gorgeous mane. We pin it with pins from the back of the head to the crown, making sure that the part fits into a beautiful snake. Well, it turned out beautiful!
5. Sew on the horn with a thin purple thread. Let the horn not be completely vertical.
6. Next we sew on the ears. Don't forget to give them an ear shape, slightly flattening them on both sides. Sew both from the outside and from the inside of the ear - it will be more reliable. If the ears are slightly different, this will give the unicorn an even more charming look;)
7. Make two contrasting French knots on the face - these will be the unicorn's nostrils.
8. Glue the eyes between the outer double crochets in the arch.
9. Next we will make the tail. To do this, take 3 threads of several colors 15 cm long, tie them with a thin thread in the middle and fold them in half. At the base of the tail, it also wouldn’t hurt to tie it with a thick thread. Trim the ends and sew to the butt!
10. The body seemed somehow bare to me, so I sewed on decorative buttons :)

So, our unicorn is ready!

Today I will tell you how to knit a Unicorn. The work is extensive, but the end result will be a huge miracle :)
The height of the finished Unicorn is 40 cm standing, 34 cm sitting. One unicorn power of love:)
I wish you all happy knitting!

Toys related to my master classes are allowed to be sold, just please indicate the author!

List of required materials:
1. Main yarn YarnArt Dolce color 750 (pale pink) - 125 g (a little more than one skein);
2. Yarn for finishing (hooves, a little on the head) Alize Cotton Gold color 616 (purple) - 15 g;
3. Yarn for wings Alize Softy color 55 (white) - 15 g;
4. Yarn for eyes Vita Coco color 3851 (white), 3852 (black), 4306 (brown) - 5 g each;
5. Yarn for horn Vita Coco color 3863 (yellow) + gold lurex - 5 g;
6. Yarn for nostrils and mane Vita Coco color 3888 (purple) - 10 g;
7. Pale pink plastic buttons with a diameter of 2.5 cm - 4 pcs;
8. Hollow fiber for stuffing.

Tools (we select the hook numbers to suit your knitting, I use these):
1. Hook number 6 for the main yarn;
2. Hook No. 3 for Alize Cotton Gold and Alize Softy;
3. Hook No. 1 for Soso;
4. Long needle for sewing on legs;
5. Needle (regular) + spool thread white, yellow, pale pink.

Conventions used in the description:

VP - air loop;
RLS - single crochet;
Dc - double crochet;
СС2Н - double crochet stitch;
СС - connecting column;
PSBN - half single crochet;
PSSN - half double crochet;
UB - decrease, knit 2 stitches together;
PREB - increase, knit 2 stitches into 1 stitch of the previous row.

1. Head.
Let's start knitting with YarnArt Dolce yarn. We knit according to the circle pattern.


6th row: *9 RLS, RIB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 33 RLS;
7th row: *10 RLS, RIB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 36 RLS;
8-14 row: 36 RLS;
Next we knit with Alize Cotton Gold yarn (don’t forget to take a hook that fits the size))). YarnArt Dolce is not cut!
15-16 row: 36 RLS;
We cut Alize Cotton Gold, fasten it, continue knitting Dolce. For convenience, we knit the first row after Cotton Gold with the same crochet hook as Cotton Gold. This makes it much easier to pull thick yarn through small loops, and the loops won’t stretch! And then we change it again to a hook for Dolce.
17th row: *4 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 30 RLS;
18-19 row: 30 RLS;
We stuff the detail.
20 row: *8 RLS, UB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 27 RLS;
21 row: *7 RLS, UB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 24 RLS;
22 row: *6 RLS, UB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 21 RLS;
We stuff the detail.
23 row: *5 RLS, UB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
24 row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
25 row: 6 UB, we get 6 RLS;
26 row: 3 UB, we get 3 RLS;

2. Body.
1st row: knit 6 sc into an amigurumi ring;
2nd row: 6 PR, we get 12 RLS;
3rd row: * RLS, RIB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
4th row: *2 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 RLS;
5th row: *3 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 30 RLS;
6th row: *4 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 36 RLS;
7th row: *5 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 42 RLS;
8th row: *6 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 48 RLS;
9-18 row: 48 RLS;
Let's start decreasing the size of the belly :)
19 row: *6 RLS, UB* - repeat 4 times from * to *, 16 RLS, we get 44 RLS;
20 row: *5 RLS, UB* - repeat 4 times from * to *, 16 RLS, we get 40 RLS;
21 row: *4 RLS, UB* - repeat 4 times from * to *, 16 RLS, we get 36 RLS;
22 row: 36 RLS;
We stuff the detail.
23 row: *4 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 30 RLS;
24 row: 30 RLS;
25 row: *3 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 RLS;
26 row: 24 RLS;
27 row: *2 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
28 row: 18 RLS;
We stuff the detail.
29 row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
Row 30: 2 RLS, 1 RLS;
We begin to knit the neck in turning rows.
Row 31: turn, knit without lifting VP (!) in PSBN of the previous row 1СБН, then another 4СБН, 1 ПСБН;
Row 32: turn, knit without lifting VP (!) in the PSBN of the previous row 1SC, then another 5SC in the loops of the previous row, 1SC in the loop of the 29th row, and then we continue to knit in a circle, we get 12 loops;
33rd row: 12 RLS;
We cut the thread and stuff the part.

3. Legs-Arms (hooves-bulges) :)
We begin to knit the hooves with Alize Cotton Gold yarn. We knit according to the circle pattern.
1st row: knit 6 sc into an amigurumi ring;
2nd row: 6 PR, we get 12 RLS;
3rd row: * RLS, RIB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
4th row: *5 RLS, RIB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 21 RLS;
5th row: 21 sc for the back half loop;
6-9 row: 21 RLS;
We change the yarn to YarnArt Dolce, Alize Cotton Gold, we do not cut it, but throw it onto the face of the knitting. For convenience, we knit the first row after Cotton Gold with the same crochet hook as Cotton Gold. This makes it much easier to pull thick yarn through small loops, and the loops won’t stretch! And then we change it again to a hook for Dolce.

Row 10: knit in the back half loop! * RLS, UB, 2SC, UB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 15 RLS;

11th row: 15 RLS;

We return to row 10 and Alize Cotton Gold yarn.
Row 10: knit in the remaining front half loop! *SC, skip one loop, knit 7 SC into the next loop, skip one loop* - repeat 5 times from * to *, skip two loops, close the row of SS in the first SC, get 5 shells; We cut the thread, fasten it, hide it.

Next we return to the 12th row and YarnArt Dolce.
12-14 row: 15 RLS;
15th row: *4 RLS, RIB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
16th row: *2 RLS, RIB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 RLS;
17-19 row: 24 RLS;
We stuff the detail. We do not stuff the part tightly so that it remains soft, the photo shows approximately what the final density should be!
20 row: *2 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
21 row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
We finally stuff the part.
22 row: 6 UB, we get 6 RLS;
We cut the thread, tighten the remaining loops, fasten the end and hide it!
According to this pattern we knit 4 parts - 2 legs, 2 arms!

4. Eyes.
We start knitting with Vita Coco black yarn.
1st row: knit 6 sc into an amigurumi ring;
We cut off the black one and replace it with brown one. By the way, the brown one I have is not Vita Coco, but YarnArt Begonia, this is a good analogue of Coco, only a little thicker.
2nd row: 6 PR, we get 12 RLS;
We cut off the brown one and change it to white.
3rd row: * RLS, RIB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
4th row: *2СБН, РБН* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 СБН;
5th row: *3СБН, РИБН* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 30 СБН;
6-9 row: 30 RLS;
10th row: * 3СБН, УБ * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 СБН;
11th row: * 2СБН, УБ * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 СБН;
We stuff the eye, not too tightly, so that it can be flattened, as in the photo!
12 row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
13th row: 6 UB, we get 6 RLS;
We cut the thread, tighten the remaining sc, thread the thread.

According to the description we knit 2 eyes. We sew the eyes to the head. We slightly shift the pupil to the side (as if looking at the horn, which we will sew on later, and we sew the eye with hidden stitches. We sew it on with sewing thread. We do not sew the eye with a ball, but lightly stick it to the head :)

5. Horn.
We knit with yellow Vita Coco yarn + gold lurex.

We knit the horn in a spiral, i.e. one row immediately goes into another, without SS, this is true for all rows!!! We alternate the rows: row dc, row sc.
1st row: knit 12 dc into an amigurumi ring;
2nd row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 4 times from * to *, we get 8 RLS;
Row 3: *3 PR from DC, 3 DC in 1 loop* - repeat 2 times from * to *, we get 18 DC;
4th row: * RLS, UB * - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
Row 5: 12 PR from DC, we get 24 DC;
6th row: *2 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
7th row: *2 dc, inc* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 dc;
8 row: *2 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
9th row: *2 dc, inc* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 24 dc;
10th row: *2 RLS, UB* - repeat 6 times from * to *, we get 18 RLS;
We cut the thread.

6. Ears.
We knit with YarnArt Dolce yarn. We knit according to the circle pattern.

3rd row: 6 RLS;
4th row: * RLS, RIB * - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 9 RLS;
5th row: 9 RLS;
6th row: *2 RLS, RIB* - repeat 3 times from * to *, we get 12 RLS;
According to this description we knit 2 ears.

We stuff the horn and sew it to the head with hidden stitches using sewing thread.
We roll the ear into a tube, lay a few stitches to secure the ear with a tube.

Sew the ear to the head with hidden stitches. Sew on the second ear symmetrically.

7. Nostrils.
We start knitting with Vita Coco purple yarn.
We knit into the amigurumi ring: 2 sc, 3 dc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 sc, 1 dc, sl st in the first loop. We cut the thread, tighten the ring and get a small heart :) We knit 2 nostrils. We pin them to the head and sew them with hidden stitches.

8. Assembly.
We sew the head to the body so that the head does not lie sadly on the stomach, we stuff the neck very tightly!

We sew the legs using the button fastening principle. There are many step by step photos. We take two threads, insert them into the button crosswise, and thread all 4 ends into the needle. We stitch through the leg, insert the needle in the middle between the 4th and 5th rows, then thread the needle through the body between the 11th and 12th rows (the puncture site is shown by the arrow), pull out the needle, pull out 2 threads from the needle, stitch the second leg, thread the threads through the button, stitch the leg through the same hole, tie a knot, hiding the ends. Something like this:)

That’s why we sew on the hands using the same principle. We insert the needle into the body between the 24th and 25th rows.

9. Wings.
We knit with white Alize Softy yarn. The wing consists of 3 feathers of different sizes.

Big feather.
1st row: knit 3 sc into an amigurumi ring;
2nd row: 3 PR, we get 6 RLS;
3-4 row: 6 RLS;
6-8 row: 8 RLS;
We cut the thread.

Medium feather.

1st row: knit 3 sc into an amigurumi ring;

2nd row: 3 PR, we get 6 RLS;
3-4 row: 6 RLS;
5th row: *2 RLS, RIB* - repeat 2 times from * to *, we get 8 RLS;
6th row: 8 RLS;
We cut the thread.

Small feather.
1st row: knit 3 sc into an amigurumi ring;
2nd row: 3 PR, we get 6 RLS;
3-4 row: 6 RLS;

We do not cut the thread, but continue to knit further:
Row 5: knit 3 sc on the small feather, then, without cutting the thread, continue to knit 4 sc on the middle feather, similarly tie the large feather, knit all 8 sc on it, then knit the remaining 4 sc on the middle feather, and 3 sc on the small feather. We get 22 sc;
6th row: 22 RLS;
7th row: 22 RLS;
8 row: we knit parallel loops together, that is, the first from the hook and the last, then we knit the next parallel loops (2 and 21) and so on, we get 11 sc;
We cut the thread and hide the end.

According to this description we knit 2 wings.

We sew the wings to the body with hidden stitches using sewing threads along a triangle, an approximate triangle is shown in the photo.

10. Mane, tail.
We make the mane and tail with Vita Coco purple yarn.

For the mane, cut the fringe into 14 cm pieces, 60 pcs. We divide all the fringe into strands of 5 pieces. We thread each strand in 1 row (each row) on the zebra’s head in the center, between the ears; my mane stretched over 6 rows. One strand per row seemed thin to me, so I added one more strand to each row. We trim the mane.

For the tail, cut fringe 30 cm long, 60 pcs. We divide the entire fringe into 3 strands of 20 pieces. We thread each strand separately in the center of the butt :) I tried tying the tail in a knot - I didn’t like it, so I untied it! I braided my hair - just what I need! :) I tied the end of the braid with an additional thread from the same yarn. The tail was trimmed.

Congratulations! The unicorn is ready :)

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Amigurumi unicorn toy: how to knit a pink unicorn. The complete scheme is free!

Wonderful, magical, rainbow unicorns! Girls of all ages adore them so much, especially after cartoons :) For a long time I was looking for a unicorn knitting pattern, but I never found a clear description in Russian of the toy model that was interesting to me. There are paid schemes that are quite interesting. I didn’t want to buy it, so I took the English dragon as a basis (a strange option))). I have slightly altered the diagram, so if there are any discrepancies in it, please write to me and I will definitely correct it! So, let's start our favorite activity!

We will need:

• Cotton yarn or cotton/polyester pale pink and hot pink yarn 50g. 1 piece each
• Filling as available (I have synthetic fluff)
• Sew on eyes
• Hook No. 2
• Knitting needles No. 2
• Sew-on eyes 10mm
• Marker for displaying a row
• Sewing needle

Unicorn knitting pattern

Head

I use pale pink yarn. We knit with single crochets

1. 6 stitches in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place the marker

2. increase in each loop, 12p

3. 1st, increase in the second column, repeat, 18p

4. 2st stitch, increase in the 3rd stitch, 24p

5-8. no change 24p

9. 3 stitches, increase in the 4th stitch, 30p

10. 4st, increase in the 5th column, 36p

11. 5st, increase in the 6th column, 42p

12-16. We knit without changes, 42p

17. In every 6 loops - decrease, 36p

18. In every 5 loops - decrease, 30p

19. In every 4 loops - decrease, 24p

20. In every 3 loops - decrease, 18p

21. In every 2 loops - decrease, 12p

22. In each 1 loop - decrease, 6p

Our eyes are located between rows 11 and 12 and about 11 stitches from each other. Make sure they are exactly where you want them to look nice. Add filler as you knit, otherwise it will be more difficult to do at the end. Add the final filler, and join the last six stitches to close the head neatly.

Ears (two parts)

1. 5 stitches from the magic circle, tighten a loop and place a marker, 5 stitches

2. repeat, only 5 loops

3. 1st, increase in 2p, 7p

4. no changes. 7p

5. 1st, increase in 2p, 10p

6 – 7. no changes.

Pull the empty loop through to finish, leaving a long tail. Don't stuff your ears to flatten them.

Paws (hands)

We start with bright pink yarn.

3. No changes. We knit on both walls (12p)
4 and 5. Knit as is (12p)

Change the yarn to pink.
6-21. We knit without changes (18p)

Cut the thread, leaving a small tip. I tie the arms into the body, if you sew, you need to leave the thread longer.
Fill the unicorn's arms a little with synthetic fluff (or any other filler), but not too tightly.

Legs and torso

We start with bright pink yarn.

1. Cast on 6 loops (6p) into the amigurumi ring
2. Increase in each stitch (12 stitches)
3. In every 2 loops, increase (18 stitches)
4 -5. We knit without changes (18p). Change the thread to a pale pink shade.
6-12 We knit 12 loops without changes.

Fasten and cut the thread at the first leg. If you want the seam to look inward, then place the legs with the last loops of the row opposite each other.

We knit the second leg, but without cutting the thread, but continuing to knit the body.
Make sure the legs are installed correctly, sew additional seams or cut off unnecessary threads if necessary. Continue knitting the body, starting with the second leg.
While knitting, gradually fill the toy with filler. At the end of knitting, stuffing the toy will be extremely problematic.
We connect the legs through 2 air loops.
15. We knit 18 loops from one leg. Then 2 loops from the air connection loops, then another 18 loops of the second leg and 2 more connection loops. Here you can hang a marker, this will be the beginning of the row (42p)
16. We knit 42 sc without changes
17. 1 increase in 8 loops, then increase through 15 loops, another 8 loops and 1 increase (46p)
18. Knit without changes, 46 loops each
19. 1 increase in 8 loops, then increase through 15 loops, another 8 loops and 1 increase (50p)
19-25. without changes
26. 6 sc, decrease, repeat (44p)
27-28. in all we knit without changes (44 sts)
29. decrease, 5 sc, repeat (38 sts)
30. We knit in all without changes (38 sts)
31. 4 sc, decrease, repeat (32p) Start stuffing the legs and body and continue as you knit.
32. Decrease 1, 3 stitches, repeat (26 stitches)
33. no changes (26p), in this row we mark a place and at the same time we knit the hands and paws of our unicorn.
34. no changes (26p)
35. Decrease, 2 stitches, repeat (20 stitches)
36. * 3sc, decrease, from * repeat 4 times (16p)

37-38 unchanged. Fasten it, cut the thread and hide it. Fill the toy to the top with filler.

Mane and tail

We cast on about 50-60 loops on the knitting needles. We close them immediately with a crochet hook and make a spiral. You need about 15-17 of these spirals for the tail. About 20 per head. Focus on your taste. Or you can make it in the form of threads.

Assembling the toy

1. Sew on the eyes.
2. Sew on the ears. First we mark it with needles so that it is symmetrical and leaves room for the horn.
3. Sew on the horn. You need to wrap any beautiful thread (you can use floss) around the horn.
4. Outlining a smile (optional)
5. You can “powder” it by tinting your cheeks with pastels.
6. Sew on the head.
7. Sew on the mane and tail.
8. You can sew a skirt from organza or tulle.

Hooray! Our toy is ready! They say unicorns bring happiness, so let your amigurumi unicorn become a real talisman!

Do you want to crochet an amigurumi toy, but don’t know where to start? The unicorn knitting pattern was created by Alison North specifically for beginner, inexperienced knitters.

It describes basic crochet techniques, those that are most often used for crocheted amigurumi toys. The diagram is accompanied by step-by-step photographs, so novice amigurumers can easily cope with the task. Also in the description of the toy you will find valuable design tips and other little tricks.

The translation of the knitted unicorn pattern into Russian was carried out by the Handcraft Studio team at the request of our readers. We are waiting for your wishes regarding new translations of knitted toys! Good luck to everyone!

Unicorn amigurumi for beginners
with a detailed description of knitting elements and techniques

Translation of the diagram into Russian was prepared by Handcraft Studio.

You will need:

• crochet hook 3 mm
• 70 g worsted yarn in white or cream color
• a small amount of contrasting yarn (20 g) for hooves
• a small amount of fluffy yarn for hair and scarf
• 9 mm eyes
• chalk (for blush on the cheeks)
• black thread for eyelash embroidery
• tapestry needle
• scissors
• material for filling toys
• crochet hook 10 mm (scarf only)

Abbreviations:

• RLS - single crochet
• СС – connecting post
• VP - air loop
• invisible decrease - invisible decrease of loops (2 single crochets, knitted together behind the front walls of the loops)
• increase - adding loops (we knit 2 single crochets into one base loop)

Connecting post
Insert the hook into the loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops.

Single crochet
Insert the hook into the loop, grab the thread and pull it through this loop (two loops have formed on the hook), yarn over, pull the thread through both loops.

Decrease loops
Insert the hook into the loop, grab the thread and pull it through this loop (there are two loops on the hook), insert the hook into the next loop and pull the thread through this loop (there are 3 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull the thread through all three loops.

Invisible decrease of loops (2 single crochets, knitted together)
Please note that when performing stealth decreases you should only work the front edges of your stitches.
Insert the hook under the front wall of the first loop. Do not yarn over or catch the thread as you would with a normal decrease. Insert the hook under the front wall of the next loop. To do this you will have to tilt the hook down. Then bring your hook up, passing the second loop through the front wall. Thus, three loops were formed on the hook. Grab the yarn and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook, making two loops. Grab the yarn again and pull it through the remaining two loops on the hook.

Color change
Insert the hook into the loop, grab the thread and pull it through this loop (two loops have formed on the hook). Drop a thread of that color, yarn over with another thread, and pull it through the two loops on your hook. Continue knitting with a new color thread. When working on multi-colored stripes, do not disconnect the threads; when necessary, simply pick up the thrown thread and continue knitting.

Magic ring
Fold the thread into a ring, leaving a small tail. Insert the hook into the center of the ring, yarn over and form a loop. Next, yarn over and bring the yarn through to make the first loop (don't count it as the first single crochet). Continue knitting in the same way until you have cast on enough stitches for the first row. For example, if the pattern requires 6 single crochets, repeat this procedure 6 times (insert hook into ring, catch yarn and make a loop, yarn over and pull yarn through two loops). When finished, pull the tail to close the ring.
Always move the knitting marker higher at the end of each row to make it easier to work on subsequent rows.
The number of stitches in a row is indicated at the end of the row in parentheses.

Amigurumi unicorn crochet pattern

Head
Take prepared white or cream thread and a 3 mm hook.

2nd row. [increase], repeat (12)

4 row. , repeat (24)
5-8 row. Sc in each loop (24)
9 row. , repeat (30)
10 row. , repeat (36)
11 row. 15 RLS, 6 times increase, 15 RLS (42)
12-16 row. Sc in each loop (42)
Place the eyes between rows 11 and 12 about 11 stitches apart, making sure they are exactly where you want them before joining as you will no longer be able to adjust their position. Now stuff the head until it is firm, you can add more material as we will be decreasing the number of stitches to cover the head next.
17th row. , repeat (36)
18th row. , repeat (30)
Row 19 , repeat (24)
20 row. , repeat (18)
21 row. , repeat (12)
22 row. invisible decrease, repeat (6)
Pass yarn through all remaining 6 stitches to complete head.


Ears (2 parts)
1 row. 5 sc in magic ring, tighten and place marker (5)
2nd row. [Sc in each stitch] (5)
3rd row. , repeat, complete 1 sc in last stitch (7)
4 row. [Sc in each stitch] (7)
5 row. , repeat, complete 1 sc in last stitch (10)
6-7 row. [Sc in each stitch], repeat
Finish with a connecting post, leaving a long thread. Don't stuff your ears, just spread them out.

Horn
1 row. 4 sc in the magic ring, tighten (you can wait and not place the marker until the beginning of the 3rd row, since before then the knitting will be quite tight)
2nd row. Sc in each loop (4)
3rd row. , repeat (6)
4 row. Sc in each loop (6)
5 row. , repeat (9)
6-7 row. Sc in each loop (9)
8 row. , repeat, complete 1 sc in last stitch (13)
9-10 row. Sc in each loop (13)
Finish with a connecting post, leaving a long thread. Stuff the horn, help yourself with the point of the hook to stuff the horn right to the top. Pin the ears approximately where you want them to be. About 4 rows above the eyes and sew them on. Attach the horn to the middle of your knitted unicorn's head and sew.


Now you need to wrap the horn, take a long thread of a contrasting color about 30 inches long (about 75 cm). Insert the needle into the upper part of the head, 4 rows away from the horn, and bring it out at the level of the 1st row of the horn, as in the first picture. Leave a long tail outside and press it with your finger, now wrap the thread tightly around the horn, it should look like rows of stitches (picture 2).
When you get to the top (now a little trick), hold the thread wrapped tightly around the horn, insert the needle into the very top of the horn (medium sized stitches may be too tight, but the ones in the picture are just right), pass it through the horn and pull it out there, where the tail of the thread remains. Make sure that the thread is still tightly wrapped around the horn, make a double knot, hide it inside and cut the thread.


To do hair for unicorn , take your fluffy colored thread, wrap it around your palm 15 or 20 times (depending on how much hair you want), take scissors and cut the threads along the bottom fold (picture 1). Take a strand and bend it in half, pass the resulting loop through the loop on the unicorn's head, near the base of the horn. Next, take the ends and pass them through a loop of fluffy thread to make a knot and secure it to your head. Continue in this manner, pinning the hair on the head and a little at the back to create a small mane. Once all the strands are tied, trim them a little to tidy them up. Now you can add eyelashes using black thread, cotton or other suitable for embroidery, as in picture 4. Make a knot and hide the ends inside.


Legs (2 parts)
Start with a contrasting color. Do not immediately secure the other leg.
1 row. 6 sc in magic ring, tighten and place marker (6)

3rd row. , repeat (18)
4-5 row. Sc in each loop (18)
Return to the main color.
6-12 row. Sc in each loop (18)
Connecting post to finish knitting only on the first leg.
On the second leg.
13 row. 3 ch, connect with the other leg with a single crochet and knit 1 sc in each loop in the circle of both legs, sc in each of the three ch. The row will be completed when you complete the other side of 3 ch (42).
Position the marker. Now we will knit the body of the unicorn.
14-30 row. Sc in each loop (42)
31 row. , repeat (36)
32-33 row. Sc in each loop (36)
34 row. , repeat (30)
Row 35-36. Sc in each loop (30)
Stuff the body until it is firm, you may want to add more cotton wool as this is followed by decreasing stitches to complete the piece.
37 row. , repeat (24)
38-39 row. Sc in each loop (24)
40 row. , repeat (18)
41-43 row. Sc in each loop (18)
Finish with a connecting post, leaving a long thread. Finish stuffing the body and sew the head to it.


Hands (2 parts)
1 row. 6 sc in magic ring, tighten and place marker (6)
2nd row. Increase, repeat (12)
Next comes one row where you use only the back wall of the loop.
3rd row. Sc in each loop (12)
Next, use both walls of the loops again
4-5 row. Sc in each loop (12)
6th row. , repeat (8)
Change the color
7-21 row. Sc in each loop (8)

Finish with a connecting post, leaving a long thread. Stuff your hands only in the hoof area. Sew the arms to the sides of the body. Make the tail for the unicorn the same way you did the hair, only make the strands longer and use 2 strands together to make the tail thicker. You will need to make 2 or 3 ties, and do them very close to each other.


To make it simple loop scarf , use a large 10 or 12 mm hook, use fluffy thread, cast on 25 loops, pull each end tightly and cut off the ends. Fold the scarf in half, wrap it around the unicorn's neck and thread the ends through the loop.


To do blush, take a pink or red crayon and draw them on your cheeks. Your amigurumi toy is ready! All that remains is to solemnly hand it over to its future owner!

This horse can be knitted not only in a girly, but also in a boyish style, as the pictures below will show.

Materials:

• Medium weight acrylic yarn - (pink, red and milky colors)
• Hooks No. 3 and 5
• Needle
• Filler
• 1 pair of eyes with a diameter of 12 mm.
• Fabric glue.
• Stitch marker

Note:
The model is knitted in the round in a spiral (without finishing the rows with a connecting stitch).
Hind legs: (2 parts)

Row 1: Beginning magic ring, 6 sc in this ring. (6)




Rows 6-10: Sc to end of row. (thirty)
Change color to pink.
Rows 11-14: Sc to end of row. (thirty)
Row 15: *3 sc, 2 sc together*, repeat until end of row. (24)
Row 16-17: Sc to end of row. (24)

Row 19-20: sc to end of row (18)

Front legs: (2 parts)
Crochet number 3 with red thread.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc to end of row. (12)
Row 3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (18)
Row 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (24)
Rows 5-10: Sc to end of row. (24)
Change color to pink.
Rows 11-17: Sc to end of row. (24)
Row 18: *2 sc, 2 sc together*, repeat until end of row. (18)
Row 19-20: Sc to end of row. (18)
Start filling with filler.
Row 21: *1 sc, 2 sc together*, repeat until the end of the row. (12)
Row 22-23: Sc to end of row. (12)
Add filler without reaching the top edge of the leg.
Row 24: *2 sc together*, repeat until end of row. (6)
Row 25: Sc to end of row. (6)
Finish the work, leaving a long end, pull it through the loops and close the hole.

Body:

Row 1: Beginning magic ring, 6 sc in this ring. (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc to end of row. (12)
Row 3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (18)
Row 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (24)
Row 5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (thirty)

Rows 7-17: Sc to end of row. (36)

Rows 19-25: Sc to end of row. (thirty)
Start filling with filler.
Row 26: *2 sc together, 3 sc*, repeat until end of row. (24)
Row 27: *2 sc together, 2 sc*, repeat until end of row. (18)
Stuff the entire body with filler.
Row 28: *2 sc together, 1 sc*, repeat until end of row. (12)
Row 29: *2 sc together*, repeat until end of row. (6)

Head:
Hook No. 3
Start knitting in milky color.
Row 1: Beginning magic ring, 6 sc in this ring. (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc to end of row. (12)
Row 3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (18)
Row 4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (24)
Row 5: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 3 sc*, repeat until end of row. (thirty)
Row 6: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 4 sc*, repeat until end of row. (36)
Row 7: *5 sc, 2 sc in next row. RLS*, repeat until the end of the row. (42)
Rows 8-14: Sc to end of row. (42)
Change color to pink.
Row 15-16: Sc to end of row. (42)
Row 17: *2 sc together, 5 sc*, repeat until end of row. (36)
Row 18: *2 sc together, 4 sc*, repeat until end of row. (thirty)
Rows 19-22: Sc to end of row. (thirty)
Attach the eyes just above the milky row.
Start filling with filler.
Row 23: *2 sc together, 3 sc*, repeat until end of row. (24)
Row 24: *2 sc together, 2 sc*, repeat until end of row. (18)
Fill the entire head with filler.
Row 25: *2 sc together, 1 sc*, repeat until end of row. (12)
Row 26: *2 sc together*, repeat until end of row. (6)
Finish the work, leave the long end and sew up the hole with it.

Ears: (2 parts)
Knit with pink yarn and crochet number 3.



Row 4: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 3 sc*, repeat until end of row. (10)
Row 5: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 4 sc*, repeat until end of row. (12)
Row 6: *2 sc in next row. RLS, 5 RLS*, repeat until end of row. (14)
Row 7: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 6 sc*, repeat until end of row. (16)

Flatten and do not add filler.

Horn:
Knit with red yarn and crochet number 3.
Row 1: Beginning magic ring, 4 sc in this ring. (4)
Row 2: *2 sc in next row. Sc, 1 sc*, repeat until end of row. (6)
Row 3: *2 sc in next row. RLS, 2 RLS*, repeat until end of row. (8)
Rows 4-8: Sc to end of row. (8)
Finish the work, leaving a long end for sewing to the head.
Fill with filler.

Mane: (consists of three parts)
1) Knit with a double thread of milky and red colors with crochet No. 5. (1 piece)
2) Crochet with red thread No. 3. (2 parts)
14 ch. *(sc, dc, dc, dc, sc) in 2nd ch. from the hook.

Note: You should get 7 small shells.

Tail:
Crochet with double thread of milky and red colors using crochet number 5.
8 v.p. *(sc, dc, dc, dc, sc) in 2nd ch. from the hook.
SS next v.p.* Repeat until the last v.p.
Note: You should get 4 small shells.

Assembly:
Sew the ears and horn to the head.
Using red thread, embroider two nostrils in the form of a cross.
Sew the legs to the body.
Sew the head to the body.
Sew the mane pieces together. (In the center there is a milky red mane, on the sides.) Sew the mane to the back of the head and body.
Fold the tail in half, matching the two shells, and sew it at the lower back of the body.

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