How to determine the right side of suiting wool fabric. Determining the right side of the fabric and the grain thread. Questions and tasks

Determining the right side of the fabric.

To determine the right side of the fabric, you first need to find out what type of weave the threads of this fabric have. After all, the fabric consists of two systems of threads intertwined at right angles: longitudinal threads - the warp and transverse threads - the weft.

The main weaves are plain, diagonal or twill, satin or satin. Plain weave is the most common. In this case, one weft thread overlaps one warp thread. This weave has the same surface on both sides. Calico, calico, most linen fabrics, and dress fabrics made from natural and artificial silk and wool are produced with this weave. The right side of plain-dyed fabrics with a plain weave is considered to be the one that looks cleaner, is better finished, and has less fluff. In printed fabrics, a pattern is applied to the front side.

Diagonal, or twill weave, forms stripes (ribbons) on fabrics. In this weave, one weft thread overlaps two or three warp threads or vice versa. Cashmere, Boston, Cheviot, lining twill, etc. are produced with this weave. Twill weave fabrics sometimes produce different shades when cut in the opposite direction. The right side in these fabrics will be the one where the rib goes from bottom left to top right.

With satin or satin weave, the fabric has a smooth, shiny surface. In this weave, in satin one weft thread covers from 4 to 8 warp threads, in satin, on the contrary, one warp thread covers from 4 to 8 weft threads. The front side of the fabric is shiny, and the back side is matte.

In addition to the above types of weaves, there are others that are derivatives of them, as well as combined ones.

Definition of lobar and transverse threads.

The properties of the lobar and transverse threads are different. Lobar threads shrink more than transverse threads. This is caused by the fact that the warp threads are stretched tightly during weaving, while the weft threads run more freely. Therefore, when exposed to moisture and steam, the warp threads acquire their original position, that is, they bend around the weft threads, and the fabric shortens (shrinks) along its length. Fabric shrinkage can be deliberate, which has a positive effect - this is the so-called decating. If undecated fabric is accidentally exposed, a product made from it will also shrink, but this is a negative phenomenon.

Some techniques for determining the lobar and transverse threads: the lobar thread runs along the edge; during a tensile test, the lobar thread has almost no stretch, while the transverse thread is more stretchable; on brushed fabric, in most cases the fleece is located along the grain thread; when tested through transmission, it is clear that the lobar filaments lie more evenly.

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Firstly, when choosing fabrics, you must pay attention to the difference between the front and back sides. Basically, canvases are produced that have clear differences between them. But there are also those that look almost the same. To do this, you need to be able to distinguish them. We recommend choosing the material for the future product in daylight. In the evening, even if you have good lighting, it is impossible to see all the nuances and defects. The topic is quite serious, and it needs to be approached with great responsibility. Especially if you have little experience.

Determining the face and back of fabric

Determining the face of the material is very important because it determines how the product will look. And besides, it makes the sewing process easier.

Nowadays there are quite a large number of double-faced canvases, that is, they are the same on both sides. Double-sided fabrics are easy to work with. If you get such material, it is a great success. But this does not happen so often and you need to be able to distinguish between the sides.

The back and face of single-sided fabric can be distinguished by surface and color. Fabrics are embroidered, printed, bleached, dyed smooth, and printed. In such cases, it is easy to determine the identity of the material, guided by the following rules:

• The canvases are finished, paint is applied to them, a design is printed, singed, etc. All work is done on one side of the canvas. You can place the fabric on the table so that two sides are visible at once and compare them. The one that is brighter will be the front one in this case.
• We can also try to determine by touch when the fabric has a woven pattern. When processing the fabric, all knots and threads are hidden on the inside. The front side will be more pleasant and smooth, and the back side will be fleecy. This rule works with fabrics such as jacquard and guipure.
• Satin and satin have a special hem. On the outside it will be directed from bottom to top approximately diagonally. The surface should be smooth and shiny. On the inside, such material will be almost matte and with roughness. Be sure to pay attention to defects. They are always hidden on the wrong side.
• If the material has a fleecy surface, it will be located on the outside. The surface can be smooth, then you need to look at the inside, where there is always more lint and fluff. If the pile is present on both sides, then on the wrong side it will be less neat and directed in different directions.
• In wool fabrics, colored threads will appear brighter on the face and duller on the back. There may be pellets and nodules.
• The front side can also be identified by the edge and the punctures on it. The holes will have the convex side on the front side, and the concave side on the back.
• If it is very difficult to determine the front side, then when purchasing, look at how the roll is folded. Most materials are usually rolled face inward. Only cotton is most often packaged the other way around - inside out.

These are the main signs that can help you choose the right side of the fabric. The main thing is to pay attention to details and you won’t go wrong! Use your senses - tactile and visual. And if it’s really difficult to decide, then rely on your intuition, and it won’t let you down!

Sometimes it may be that you initially like the inside side more than the front side. This is entirely your choice, and you have the right to do as you want. If you disagree with the fabric manufacturer, and you find the backside more attractive, then use it as the face. Don't create unnecessary problems for yourself. The main thing is that you like it. Anyway, no one will know about it except you.

Also on our YouTube channel We have prepared a video for you on how to find out where the backside is and where the face is of fabrics. Watch and subscribe!

When purchasing fabric for sewing any product, before you start cutting, it is very important to accurately determine the back and front sides of the fabric. However, this is not always quite simple. The canvas may look exactly the same from all sides, but you can notice flaws in its appearance and understand that you started sewing from the inside out only when the product is ready.

How to determine the “face” of a fabric?

There is a tendency in textile factories to produce double-sided fabrics that are absolutely identical on both sides. They are usually called two-faced. This is quite convenient, because then there is no need to determine the wrong side before sewing the product. But this is the exception rather than the rule. If the material you choose is not of this type, then you need to remember seven simple basic rules that will tell you where the wrong side of the fabric is:

1. You can take a closer look at the fabric and roughly calculate its front part for yourself at the time of purchase. Carefully examine the roll and how the fabric you choose is rolled. Most fabrics, for example, silk and wool, are rolled with the right side inward to protect the “face” from damage, fading, and unnecessary defects. Cotton fabrics, on the contrary, are rolled with the inside out.
2. Having bought fabric with a printed pattern, the question of determining the wrong side will disappear almost immediately. By laying it out so that the back and face are visible, you will notice that the print on such a canvas will be much brighter and clearer on the side of the face. If you are still not sure, feel the fabric. On the front side it will be smooth, with even pile and a slight sheen. On the back it is slightly fleecy and dull.
3. Using the same principle, you can identify some fabrics on which patterns and designs are applied by piercing the fabric from the back to the face: from the front side, by running over the embossed pattern, you can feel slight irregularities and bulges.
4. In mixed fabrics, the reverse side looks less neat and upon closer examination you will notice that it has much more roughness, barely noticeable knots, uneven weaves, thickened threads and other weaving defects. On the front side, the material has a glossy, shiny finish; exceptionally expensive threads and neat weaving are visible.
5. In satin and satin fabrics, due to the special weave on the front side, they are characteristically shiny, smooth, very soft and pleasant to the touch. On the reverse side, the product is a little rough, with visible hairiness, matte, and the color of the canvas, even without a pattern applied to it, is much duller.
6. By the edge of the fabric and by the punctures on it, you can also easily determine the front side of the material. During production, it is pierced with pins from the inside out, leaving characteristic marks on the finished canvas. So the face can be identified by the holes, which will be convex on one side and concave on the back. On the edge you can see colored threads that are missing from the inside.
7. It is also important to take a closer look at the presence of embroidery on the hem. In such places, the manufacturer puts the name of the company, the fabric, or a list of materials that make up the fabric. This embroidery is visible only from the front side of the fabric.

It’s not difficult to determine the wrong side, you just need to take a closer look at the details. In some cases, if you are dealing with plain fabrics without prints, this does not play such a big role. For the front side, you can take the one that seems to you to be of the highest quality. In the future, it is important not to get confused only when making product parts.

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Plan - lesson summary

by technology

on the topic of:

“The front and back side of the fabric. Properties of fabrics".

Lesson objectives:

· introduce students to the basic properties of fabric, teach them to identify the front and back sides of fabric;

· develop spatial understanding and performing skills;

· instill neatness skills;

· correction of attention, thinking, visual memory.

Lesson type: combined.

Materials and tools:workbook,fabric samples (to determine the front and back sides), glue, scissors.

During the classes

I. Organizing time.

A) Checking those present;

B) Checking readiness for the lesson (availability of notebooks).

II Communication of new material (+ P/R)

Front and back side.

Fabric is a textile fabric made on a loom.

The fabric consists of two interwoven threads arranged perpendicularly. The system of threads running along the fabric is called the warp, and the system of threads located across the fabric is called the weft.

Now, let’s take fabric samples in our hands and look at them carefully...

Signs of identifying facialand the wrong side of the fabric

· According to the printed drawing.Printed fabric has a brighter and clearer pattern on the front side of the fabric.

· On the surface. Smoothly dyed fabrics have a smoother front side and a fuzzier back side.

· By shine. For example, satin fabric.

· Accuracy. The number of knots, loops, and ends of broken threads on the front side is less than on the back side.

· By pile. The front side of velvet or corduroy has a long pile. On the reverse side the surface is smooth or the pile is short

· Along the edge. There are pinholes along the edges of the fabric near the hem.

There are single-sided and double-sided fabrics. Remember that determining the right side and back side plays an important role when cutting clothes.

In single-sided fabrics, the front and back sides are sharply different from each other. In double-sided fabrics this difference is almost unnoticeable, i.e. both sides can be used for cutting.

III Practical work

P/R: definition of front and back sides

(section samples)

Exercise: Determine the front and back sides of fabrics based on the studied characteristics. Checking the completed work and assessing its quality will be carried out at the end of the lesson. Glue samples of the front and back sides into your notebook.

Properties of fabrics (+ P/R).

The main properties of fabrics include mechanical, physical and technological.

· Mechanical propertiesdetermine how the tissue reacts to the action of external forces.

Strength - the ability of the fabric to resist tearing.This is one of the important properties affecting the quality of the fabric.

Wrinkleability - the ability of fabric to form folds during compression and pressure on it.

Drapability - the ability of the fabric, when it hangs, to fall in soft rounded folds.It is no coincidence that curtains and drapes on windows are called draperies.

Wear resistance- the ability of fabric to withstand friction, stretching, bending, compression,moisture, light, sun, temperature, sweatetc.; depends on the strength of the fabric fibers.

· Physical properties- properties aimed at preserving human health.

Thermal properties- the ability of fabric to retain the heat of the human body; depends on the composition, thickness and type of finishing of the fabric.

Hygroscopicity– the ability of fabric to absorb moisture.

Dust capacity - the ability of the fabric to retain dust and other contaminants.

· Technological properties- properties that appear in the fabric during the manufacturing process of the product, from cutting to WTO.

Slip - can occur when cutting and stitching fabrics and depends on the smoothness of the fabrics and the type of weave.

Shatterability - lies in the fact that the threads are not held along the open sections of the material and slip out, crumble, forming a fringe.

Shrinkage - reduction in fabric size under the influence of heat and moisture, depends on fiber composition, structure and finishing.

Reinforcement: by cards

(Appendix A) – fill out and paste into your notebook.

IV . Results and evaluation of the work performed.

The grade for the lesson is summed up from the accumulated points:

· first P/R – 2 points,

· second – 3

If you answer additional questions (1 answer – 1 point).

If you want to make something yourself, you need to determine the right side and back side of the fabric before cutting. This will not only have a positive effect on the appearance of the product, but will also make the sewing process easier.

Many fabrics are produced by factories in double-sided form. That is, they have an identical appearance on both sides. In this case, choose the side you like and sew. But what if the fabric has both a front part and a back part; how to distinguish them from each other?

Fabrics without patterns

Let's start with the fact that the fabrics coming from the factory are folded along the cut of the material. In this case, the front part is “hidden” inside. This is done so that you can immediately apply the pattern, cut and baste (only from the inside out).

Fabrics with patterns

If the design is printed, then on the front side it will look brighter and clearer. If the image is created by stamping (piercing holes), the needle passes from the inside to the face, so they can be identified by touch: on the “dressy” side the hole will be convex, and on the inside it will be concave and smooth.

Wrong side

They try to “hide” all sorts of nodules, thickenings and other “clues” on it; This is also the part that will roll off. This is determined by running your hand over the surface (or rubbing it lightly) and comparing it with the opposite side.

Front side

If the fabric, by definition, has a fleecy surface, then it will be located on the outside. If an absolutely smooth appearance is provided, then the back part may be covered with a little fluff or lint, but there will be none on the front part. If both sides have a pile, then from the face it will have a more well-groomed, smooth appearance and go in the same direction.

Gold and silver threads in fabrics with lurex, applique or neat embroidery are located on a “decorative” thread base.

In fabrics such as satin, the smooth, shiny and brighter part represents the face.

For fabrics with scars, they are located from left to right and go from bottom to top.

Instructions

1. Lay the fabric on the table, folding it so that both sides are visible at the same time: front and back. On material with a printed pattern, compare the clarity and richness of the pattern. On the front side the ornament should be brighter and more distinct. Run your hand over the fabric. The front side of the printed material is usually smooth and slightly shiny, while the back side is slightly fleecy and matte.

2. Inspect the canvas from both sides. Pay attention to various defects: thickened or elongated threads, knots, etc. Usually they are brought out on the wrong side. There should be no defects on the front side of high-quality fabric. Expensive fabrics with metallic threads should have a more elegant and shiny front side.

3. In plain-dyed fabrics with twill or plain weave, there are no qualitative differences between the front and back sides. Such fabrics are called double-faced.

4. Carefully examine the edge of the fabric. On the front side of the edge of cloth there are colored threads that are almost invisible on the back side. The edge of any fabric is smooth on the front side, but on the back side you can see knots and roughness on it.
There are punctures along the edge, usually from the inside to the face. Then there will be concave holes on the backside, and convex holes on the face. Be careful though, sometimes it happens the other way around.

5. The front side of silk and satin fabrics has an attractive glossy sheen. The reverse side of such materials is usually matte. The face of fleecy fabrics, as a rule, has a thicker and longer pile than their back. It must be remembered that for some materials, for example, flannel, the brushed pile is the same on the front and back sides. Fleece is considered a two-face material. Clothes from it can be sewn with the pile facing outwards or inwards.

6. When purchasing fabric, pay attention to how the fabric is rolled. Domestic silk, linen and woolen fabrics are usually packed with the front side inward, and cotton fabrics with the wrong side inward.