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Let's learn to sew with our own hands. How to make and sew shoulder pads. Video master class Sew shoulder pads to a sleeveless dress


Once upon a time, shoulder pads were a trendy detail of jackets, coats, dresses and even light blouses. Shoulder pads, like any trend, have gone through periods of wild popularity and almost complete oblivion, but not so long ago fashion designers remembered them again. In this video you will first see the process of making a shoulder pad, and then how to sew it in:


Rules for wearing modern shoulder pads

Modern shoulder pads are more of an external detail, decorated with rivets, sequins, chains, decorative buttons and so on. Modern trends promote an extended shoulder line in any form, but not everyone is ready to embody the bold ideas of designers and copy the images of famous fashionistas in real life. Ordinary women are afraid of shoulder pads, fearing that such things create the impression of a rough and heavy image. In fact, there is absolutely nothing to be afraid of.

To avoid looking like an American football player, it is enough to wear shoulder pads correctly, following a few simple stylistic rules:

1. Shoulder pads, that is, a visually expanded and enlarged shoulder line, should be the central part of the ensemble, that is, the remaining details of the cut and the image as a whole should be in a restrained style. A win-win option is a blazer or jacket with shoulder pads combined with skinny jeans, tapered trousers, shorts or a mini dress. Shoulder pads look best with tight-fitting clothes and a visually elongated silhouette.

2. If you plan to wear something with shoulder pads, it is better to minimize the presence of other accessories. This is especially true for items not with internal shoulder pads, but with decorative epaulets decorated with metal parts or glass beads; such decor is quite enough to make the overall image look bright and expressive. It is better to wear a simple, medium-sized necklace or rings with a jacket with shoulder pads.

3. Shoulder pads and long sleeves are an ideal pair; the emphasized shoulder line looks trendy in dresses, tops and jackets with long narrow sleeves. The shoulder pad should not be too voluminous; in fact, the purpose of the modern shoulder pad is not so much to increase the shoulders, but to emphasize the waist. You shouldn’t be like Lady Gaga; such exaggerated forms are only appropriate on stage, but not in everyday life. If you wear a minidress with shoulder pads, it is better to have it with long sleeves; this cut visually elongates the silhouette and emphasizes slender legs.


4. Be yourself and don't change your style. If you don't like things with shoulder pads, you shouldn't wear them, even if shoulder pads are the hottest trend. Broad, expressive shoulders, or rather things of this silhouette, require confidence and a certain perception of the image as a whole. If you're not passionate about the topic, it's best to avoid a fashion trend that conflicts with your sense of self.

Whether or not to wear things with shoulder pads is a matter of personal preference, but there is no denying that shoulder pads are back in fashion and have become one of the hottest trends. Not only horizontal shoulder pads are in fashion, but also details with a pointed top, such shoulder pads create the illusion of being taller, but again, they should not be too sharp, otherwise the silhouette will look somewhat comical. Shocking style in the style of Nicki Minaj or Lady Gaga is not appropriate in everyday style.

Raglan shoulder pad pattern

The shoulder pad consists of two main layers - top and bottom. The bottom layer pattern is removed from the shoulder section of the sleeve of the coat pattern.

By increasing the pattern of the bottom layer by the thickness of the shoulder pad, we get the pattern of the top layer. We draw it as a separate detail and put it aside for now, we will need it at the very end.

Making the lower layer of the shoulder pad

Using a pattern bottom layer. We press two layers of padding polyester into one with an iron, covering them with a damp iron. The layers of padding polyester, slightly melted, are glued together into a thin plate 1-1.5 mm thick. From it we cut out the details of the shoulder pad.

We reduce the pattern along the outer edge by 0.7 cm. Using it we cut a part from padding polyester, place it on the already pressed parts and press again. We repeat again. As a result, each part consists of four layers with a gradual decrease in the thickness of the outer edge. The stepped arrangement of layers will prevent the shoulder pad from being printed on the front side of the product.

From calico we cut out the details of the shoulder pad with an allowance of 1 cm along all cuts. We place the molded parts of the shoulder pad on them and quilt all the layers. We sew the shoulder sections, cut the seam allowances to 0.7 cm, and iron them. We sew the seam with a zigzag to flatten it.

We connect the paper pattern of the shoulder pad along the shoulder line (shelf + back). We mark the lines along which the parts have already been reduced (twice 0.7 cm each) and cut off the excess from the pattern. Then we mark the pattern, again reducing the parts with a difference of 1 cm. We get three parts.

We cut them out of padding polyester.

We sew all three parts manually to the bottom layer. First the large one, then the medium one and finally the smallest one. At the same time, close the darts, aligning their edges. Important! Do not tighten the stitches.

When all three layers are sewn, cover the shoulder pad with a damp iron. Using an iron, carefully, trying not to press down the padding polyester too much, press the layers together. We do this so that we get a smooth transition from the edge to the center of the shoulder pad. Along the perimeter we melt the layers more strongly, and in the center we act carefully so as to only slightly melt the top layer. As a result, the shoulder pad will be dense on top, but the inside will remain soft, just like a crusty bun.

Final shaping of the raglan shoulder pad

Take a pattern top layer shoulder pad (shelf and back), combine along the shoulder seam and cut out of padding polyester in one piece.
Place it on top of the bottom layer of the shoulder pad. We close the dart, aligning the edges, and sew the part by hand along the outer edge. Cover the shoulder pad with a damp iron and carefully, without pressing too hard with the iron, glue the top layer of the shoulder pad to the bottom. We work with an iron like a sculptor, sculpting the desired shape. In the photo you can see the difference: on the left the shoulder pad is not ironed, on the right it is “sculpted”.



We check the consistency of the pattern of the top layer and the resulting shoulder pad. In our example, the length of the shoulder on the pattern needed to be increased by 1 cm. We cut out the top layer of the shoulder pad from calico, taking into account the adjustments. Sew the shoulder seam, iron it, embroider it. We place the calico piece on the shoulder pad and baste it. We sew it along the outer edge with the lower part. The stitch follows the contour of the padding polyester parts. We cut the seam allowance to 0.5 - 0.7 cm and overlock it with an overlocker. The shoulder pad is ready.

Raglan shoulder pad pattern

The shoulder pad consists of two main layers - top and bottom. The bottom layer pattern is removed from the shoulder section of the sleeve of the coat pattern.

By increasing the pattern of the bottom layer by the thickness of the shoulder pad, we get the pattern of the top layer. We draw it as a separate detail and put it aside for now, we will need it at the very end.

Making the lower layer of the shoulder pad

Using a pattern bottom layer. We press two layers of padding polyester into one with an iron, covering them with a damp iron. The layers of padding polyester, slightly melted, are glued together into a thin plate 1-1.5 mm thick. From it we cut out the details of the shoulder pad.

We reduce the pattern along the outer edge by 0.7 cm. Using it we cut a part from padding polyester, place it on the already pressed parts and press again. We repeat again. As a result, each part consists of four layers with a gradual decrease in the thickness of the outer edge. The stepped arrangement of layers will prevent the shoulder pad from being printed on the front side of the product.

From calico we cut out the details of the shoulder pad with an allowance of 1 cm along all cuts. We place the molded parts of the shoulder pad on them and quilt all the layers. We sew the shoulder sections, cut the seam allowances to 0.7 cm, and iron them. We sew the seam with a zigzag to flatten it.

We connect the paper pattern of the shoulder pad along the shoulder line (shelf + back). We mark the lines along which the parts have already been reduced (twice 0.7 cm each) and cut off the excess from the pattern. Then we mark the pattern, again reducing the parts with a difference of 1 cm. We get three parts.

We cut them out of padding polyester.

We sew all three parts manually to the bottom layer. First the large one, then the medium one and finally the smallest one. At the same time, close the darts, aligning their edges. Important! Do not tighten the stitches.

When all three layers are sewn, cover the shoulder pad with a damp iron. Using an iron, carefully, trying not to press down the padding polyester too much, press the layers together. We do this so that we get a smooth transition from the edge to the center of the shoulder pad. Along the perimeter we melt the layers more strongly, and in the center we act carefully so as to only slightly melt the top layer. As a result, the shoulder pad will be dense on top, but the inside will remain soft, just like a crusty bun.

Final shaping of the raglan shoulder pad

Take a pattern top layer shoulder pad (shelf and back), combine along the shoulder seam and cut out of padding polyester in one piece.
Place it on top of the bottom layer of the shoulder pad. We close the dart, aligning the edges, and sew the part by hand along the outer edge. Cover the shoulder pad with a damp iron and carefully, without pressing too hard with the iron, glue the top layer of the shoulder pad to the bottom. We work with an iron like a sculptor, sculpting the desired shape. In the photo you can see the difference: on the left the shoulder pad is not ironed, on the right it is “sculpted”.



We check the consistency of the pattern of the top layer and the resulting shoulder pad. In our example, the length of the shoulder on the pattern needed to be increased by 1 cm. We cut out the top layer of the shoulder pad from calico, taking into account the adjustments. Sew the shoulder seam, iron it, embroider it. We place the calico piece on the shoulder pad and baste it. We sew it along the outer edge with the lower part. The stitch follows the contour of the padding polyester parts. We cut the seam allowance to 0.5 - 0.7 cm and overlock it with an overlocker. The shoulder pad is ready.

To make your own shoulder pads, first of all, use a pencil and a ruler to draw a line (= shoulder seam line) on a large piece of paper. There should be enough space above and below this line. At a distance of approx. Place a mark 2.5 cm from the left end of this line.

Lay out the paper patterns of the shelf and back with the shoulder sections along the line drawn in step 1 (Fig. 1). Align the armhole cuts. The mark placed should lie at a distance of 2.5 cm from the neckline cut.

Draw a line along the armhole cut: a length of approx. 10 cm along the cut of the front armhole and approx. 12 cm along the cut of the back armhole, place dots. Connect these points with the point at the neck using a curly ruler.

At an angle of 45 degrees to the shoulder seam, draw a line for the direction of the grain thread.

: Master Class

Cut out the shoulder pads


Using a paper pattern, cut out 4 shoulder pad pieces from calico.

Fold two parts at a time, one on top of the other, and pin them together so that the top part has an overlap in the middle (do not combine the cuts of both shoulder pad parts).

Sweep away the shoulder pads


Baste both layers using many hand stitches in rows across the entire shoulder pad. At the same time, do not tighten the thread too much so that the parts do not twist later.

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Baste with volumenfliz


Pin several layers of volumenfleece, one after another, to the DIY shoulder pad. For a smooth transition, thin out the volumenfleece a little to the cut that will lie closer to the neck. Finally, apply another layer of volumenfleece of uniform thickness. In this case, it is best to place the shoulder pad on a rolled up towel. From time to time, try on a jacket or coat with shoulder pads to achieve the desired thickness.

Sew woolenfleece


Secure the volumenfleece with large, loose stitches so that it does not move. If the shoulder pads come with an unlined model, they need to be covered with lining fabric. To do this, cut out 4 pieces with wide allowances from the lining fabric, sew 2 pieces cleanly. Place the shoulder pads inside and sew up the open edges.

This is how you can easily and simply make shoulder pads for clothes with your own hands.

Shoulder pads

If shoulder pads are included in the list of model parts, they are necessary, since they “hold” the entire structure, and it is impossible to do without them, otherwise the shoulders will sag and lose their shape, as will the intended silhouette and the entire product. Sleeve patterns in this case are constructed taking into account the freedom for padding.
The shape of the shoulder pads depends on the cut of the sleeve. There are two main types of shoulder pads - triangular for set-in sleeves and raglan (the latter have variations). Shoulder pads come in different thicknesses - from 0.6 to 2.5 cm, which depends on the degree of convexity of the sleeve. They are filled with a special non-woven synthetic material, padding polyester [or batting]. Don’t be afraid to change the shape of ready-made shoulder pads or reduce their thickness if they don’t quite suit you; shoulder pads are “tailored” to your figure in the same way as ready-made standard patterns.

Triangular shoulder pads end at the top of the shoulder and create a sharp, hard edge on the sleeve. They are used to strengthen regular set-in sleeves and set-in sleeves with an extended shoulder line.
Raglan shoulder pads They are worn on the shoulders like caps; they hold the soft, rounded shape of raglan sleeves, kimonos, and lowered sleeves.
In the case when the shoulder pads are sewn to a product without a lining, they can be covered with the same fabric from which the entire thing is sewn, if this fabric is thin, or with a lining fabric to match the main one. For light dresses and blouses, you can purchase ready-made shoulder pads made from lining fabric. In chapter shoulder shape shows how to make shoulder pads for a lined product.
In the photographs below, the right shoulder is shown in finished form with the shoulder pad hemmed from the inside out; the shoulder pad is placed on top of the left shoulder, in the same position as he holds the finished shoulder.

Shoulder pad placement

Set-in sleeve. Check the product and place the triangular shoulder pad on the shoulder so that its edge extends 1 cm beyond the shoulder seam line into the sleeve. Pin the shoulder pad along the shoulder seam.
Kimono or raglan. Place the shoulder pad over the shoulder to create a flat surface that curves toward the sleeve, baste the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam or attach it with Velcro so that the shoulder pad can be easily removed.
Set-in sleeve with gathering. Sew a triangular shoulder pad onto the shoulder so that it extends 1 cm into the sleeve and keeps the gathers straightened. In this case, you can also use a sleeve head amplifier.
Long shoulder or dropped sleeve. The raglan shoulder pad fits over the shoulder like a cap. If you want to use regular triangular shoulder pads, they must extend into the sleeve by at least 1 cm.

TO How to make a fabric cover for a shoulder pad

1. Make a pattern for the cover by tracing the outline of the shoulder pad on paper. Cut the bottom two pieces (for both shoulder pads), allowing a 1.3cm seam allowance. Then cut the top two pieces, allowing a 2.5cm seam allowance.
2. Place the smaller lining piece on the underside of the shoulder pad, lining up the rounded edges. Then turn the lining back and baste it to the shoulder pad using bias stitches so that the short stitches are visible only on the lining side. Then fold the lining so that it rests on top of the shoulder pad and the second stitch is 3.8 cm from the first. Continue sewing the lining to the entire surface of the shoulder pad in this manner.
3. Pin the top lining onto the shoulder pad along the rounded edge, seating the fabric or adding small folds if necessary. Do not put too much tension on the fabric over the shoulder pad. Then stitch the lining on all sides of the hemline by machine or hand stitch it. Trim the seam allowances with serrated scissors or join them with a zigzag stitch.

How to attach shoulder pads to clothing

First, attach the edges of the triangular shoulder pad to the armhole in three places: at the point of the apex of the sleeve on the back and on the front. Then sew the tip of the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam allowance. The shoulder pad should lie softly without stretching.
Attach the shoulder pad to the machine in the same places as in the previous method, using a wide zigzag stitch with closely spaced stitches. Start at the top of the shoulder pad. Make sure that the stitching does not cover the front side.
You can make a Velcro fastener on the shoulder pads - then you can quickly remove them and attach them again. Take a thin Velcro tape, sew the upper half to the shoulder seam, and the lower half to the shoulder pad. In this case, there is no need to additionally baste the shoulder pad.